Lamata Ensamble 'Tamaulipas' Tradicional (Familia Teran)
Lamata Ensamble is produced by Jose Castellanos in Las Virgenes in the northern state of Tamaulipas using equal parts of three agaves: 33% A. Asperrima, 33% A. Americana, and 33% A. Univittata. In this region of Tamaulipas, both the Agave Asperrima and Agave Americana are referred to simply as “Maguey” while the smaller Agave Univittata is called “Amole”. All three agave are cooked together in an underground oven and their juices are squeezed out using an antique wooden sugar-cane trapiche (seen in drawing on front label). The fibers are discarded and only the juices of the agave are fermented. The juice is fermented spontaneously with spring water. Due to the proximity to the Texas border, the traditional still is a Moonshine style still brought from the Southern US states, popularized during US prohibition. Basically a traditional pot still, this system is differentiated by a wooden barrel or “thumper” being connected between the pot and the serpentine. The final spirit is adjusted with heads and tails. This is a very unique tasting mezcal, with a delightful funkiness.
Lamata is the export arm of Nación de las Verdes Matas, a small independent and unregistered mezcal brand created by Luis Loya. Growing up in Chihuahua, Luis developed a passion for exploring remote communities across Northern Mexico, and for their unique and traditional mezcales. Over the years, Luis has built strong relationships with a number of those rural maestros, in states like Sonora, Chihuahua, Durango, Nuevo León, and Tamaulipas, among others.
In 2011, he founded Nación de las Verdes Matas and Lamata, bringing a selection of these under-represented spirits to market. Because the current Denomination of Origen for mezcal does not recognize several of these states and production styles, Luis has chosen not to certify any of them as such. The goal of the project is to preserve the “gusto historico”—the liquid culture, terroir and history—unchanged; to ensure the producers receive an equitable share of the profits; and to educate and broaden the horizons of mezcal consumers by sharing these beautiful spirits.
In order to protect these natural resources from being over exploited, and to keep small scale production methods intact, typical lots range from 40 liters to 200; US releases are extremely limited.