2022 Radici e Filari 'Coclico' Skin Fermented Arneis
This cantina is relatively new to us here at Gemini, a recent pick up by our friends at Barrel Down Selections. What most drew us to this wine was the style, and of course the wine itself. We field a ton of questions about orange wine at the shop, and a wine like this is the perfect example of a natural wine that anyone would enjoy. Many assume that all orange wines are on the wild side, yet this wine is extremely elegant and from a grape not everyone may be familiar with. Around 2020 the market was flooded with a ‘new wave’ of this style of wine. In our minds this style isn’t new, it's actually the oldest way to make white wine before refrigeration, temp control etc. We really enjoy skin fermented wines made from Arneis as they tend to be on the more savory and secondary side of the flavor spectrum. You get more honeyed flavors, also dried flowers as opposed to fresh ones and the fruit is present but it’s on the dried vs. juicy fruit side.
Radici e Filari is a biodynamic/organic family estate in La Morra that has been producing wine for a little over 40 years. Famous for Barolo and Barbaresco, the white wines of the region rarely get their time in the spotlight. Emanuele is the youngest generation of winemakers in the family and he really pushed them into the more creative side of winemaking. Bringing new ideas to a traditional family business can be tough but his passion won everyone over. He mentioned in an article we read that his whole intention with the wines is ‘simplicity & authenticity’. This region isn't known for breaking ties from the region’s traditions, so most people think he’s crazy for using skin maceration (traditionally a ‘peasant’s’ wine) or not using sulfur in the wines (of course they’ll go bad...) and making wines from grapes not necessarily local. For example he’s also making a gamay (the last of an ancient planting much to the dismay of his neighbors). If you haven’t tasted Arneis, this grape makes wines that can taste like Chablis, Albarino and/or Chenin Blanc. The wines have wonderful texture, a salty minerality and alot of rich citrus. Of course with the skin maceration you get hints of these hallmarks but not the full effect of the variety. Drink this wine with a slight chill, not too cold or you’ll lose the aromatics and highlight the tannins.
Pairing Recommendations: The perfect Fall wine to match with all the fall produce. Squashes, bitter greens, braised meats and stews will all complement. A Chicken Tortellini soup. Ripe soft cheeses like the local Taleggio or Robiola with seeded crackers and some fresh persimmon would be a great dessert with this wine.